THICKNESS

Thickness refers to the width of each individual hair strand, which can range from 35-135 microns. We measure the micro-width of your hair under a microscope. Knowing the precise width of your strands is critical to choosing the right products.

THIN - MEDIUM THIN

  • Thinner hair is difficult to perm or straighten chemically. It requires longer treatment time than thick hair, inflicting greater damage. Try to avoid these types of treatments, or ensure you work with a licensed and experienced professional to limit damage.

  • Thinner hair is easily weighed down by products, as it has a greater surface area-to-mass ratio than medium or thick hair. See the recommended products and routine sections to learn more about optimal treatment for your hair.

  • Thinner hair is impacted by its own weight, making your hair feel flat. A haircut with layers will help reduce the overall weight experienced by your hair and create more volume.

MEDIUM THICK - THICK

  • Thicker hair is easier to perm or straighten chemically than thin hair. If you plan to undergo these types of treatments, ensure you work with a licensed and experienced professional to limit damage.

  • Thicker hair has a high cortex-to-cuticle ratio which typically can make hair feel strong but medium-thick hair can feel rigid and stiff after treatment with protein-enriched products.

  • Thicker hair tends to resist styling and often requires significant product and heat to retain style.

POROSITY

Porosity reveals how hair absorbs water, how frequently one should use products, and how to apply them. High porosity hair absorbs water quickly and is more susceptible to swelling. The opposite is true of low porosity hair. We measure porosity with a surface tensiometer, which calculates the angle at which water contacts hair. A large contact angle indicates low porosity, as water is more inclined to sit on top of, rather than seeping into  hair

LOW - MEDIUM LOW

  • Lower porosity hair tends to dry very slowly and remain hydrated between washes. In the event it does lose moisture, though, it's more difficult to rehydrate.

  • Lower porosity hair will absorb water slowly, reducing the chance of swelling.

  • Products tend to form a film on top of, instead of penetrating, lower porosity hair, allowing products to quickly build-up on your strands.

  • Lower porosity occurs naturally and indicates that the hair has experienced little damage. Lower porosity can also be temporarily achieved with chemical treatments such as keratin treatments.

MEDIUM HIGH - HIGH

  • Higher porosity hair tends to dry quickly, leading to strands that feel dehydrated. 

  • Higher porosity hair will absorb water quickly, increasing the chance of swelling. Swelling can cause significant damage to your strands, so care is required on wash days to reduce its impact.

  • Products tend to penetrate, as opposed to forming a film on, higher porosity hair.

  • Higher porosity typically indicates that hair has experienced some level of damage, as it has lost some of its exterior protective layers. It is also more vulnerable to future physical damage from brushing and friction.

DAMGE

We examine hair cuticles under a microscope for evidence of damage. We look for physical damage, typically caused by brushing and friction; chemical damage, typically caused by color treatments and chlorine; heat damage, typically caused by styling with heat; and UV damage, caused by sun exposure. Cuticle fusion is typically caused by sun exposure. Cracks can indicate friction damage, caused by brushing or rough handling of hair. Spiral shaped holes in the cuticles indicate potential heat damage.

PHYSICAL 

Your microscopic analysis reveals evidence of broken cuticles and split and stretched strands, which typically indicates physical damage. Broken cuticles contribute to frizz, dulling of hair color, and further damage. Stretched hair is thinner, weaker, and less flexible than healthy hair, making it more likely to break off and less likely to form defined curls.

  1. Avoid dry brushing your hair. Instead, use a wide- tooth comb or detangling brush.

  2. Detangle hair in the shower when wet and loaded with conditioner.

  3. Use a microfiber towel when drying your hair, and sleep with either a silk or satin pillowcase, or a bonnet.

  4. Use gentle hair ties such as scrunchies or hair rings.

  5. Use leave-in conditioners with humectants, such as: aloe vera, flaxseed, or algae to smooth broken cuticles and enhance shine.

UV 

Your microscopic analysis reveals evidence of cuticle shrinkage and fusing, which typically indicates UV damage. Shrunken and damaged cuticles can lead to dull and frizzy hair.

  1. Wear hats or headscarves to reduce sun exposure.

  2. Consider a chemical barrier, such as UV protectant serums or sprays. We recommend products formulated with sunflower oil or algae extract.

CHEMICAL

Your microscopic analysis shows evidence of significant cuticle reduction in your hair strands. This is typically associated with significant chemical damage caused by color treatments or chlorine exposure. Chemical damage results in the breaking of disulfide bonds in your hair, eventually weakening and removing your hair's cuticles. Without a healthy cuticle structure, hair becomes porous, easily dehydrated, brittle, and difficult to work with.

  1. Avoid at-home color treatments or drastic color changes in one treatment session.

  2. Work with a hair care professional who prioritizes hair health.

  3. If you are a swimmer, use a swim cap or soak your hair in tap water before entering the pool

  4. If your shower water contains high concentrations of chlorine, consider investing in a chlorine filter.

HEAT

Your microscopic analysis shows evidence of spiral shaped holes in the cuticles, typically indicative of heat damage. When exposed to high heat, the moisture deep inside of the hair shaft evaporates and bursts through the hair, causing damage throughout. This type of damage contributes to frizz, dullness of color, and brittleness in hair.

 

  1. Use heat protectant when blow drying, ironing, or curling hair with heat.

  2. Avoid sudden changes in hair temperature, such as flat ironing wet hair.